Friday, January 27, 2006

The Chaos Within - AFRICA


I just got back from Africa.

I was at a Church of Scotland HIV/AIDS Project conference. It was held in Limuru, near Nairobi, in Kenya.

What an intense five days we spent together. Presentations, discussions, questions, answers, no answers, provocations, reflections, statements. India, Pakistan, Bangladesh, Nepal, Thailand, Scotland, Malawi, Kenya, Nigeria, South Africa, Sudan... AFRICA. We were one. For the briefest of times we shared our humanity and borders and differences were forgotten, rejected, puerile. Even faith succumbed to humanity... and in my experience it is very rare that faith allows itself to return to its roots.

My interaction with Pastor Patricia Sawo, an HIV+ minister from Kenya who is part of ANERELA+ summed up the conference. To begin I was wary of her, she was magnificent, but she came from a background of Pentecostalism that had scarred me. We talked, and by the end of the conference I was grateful for her courage and vision. We stood arm in arm for the picture at the end of the conference. Humanity.

Why the fuck do we ignore it? Why do we deny it to those who are HIV+? Story after story after story... of stigma that bludgeoned and killed people. Rejection kills. And in Sudan we heard of how the gun spits bullets at you if you are FEARED to be HIV+.

AFRICA has had a painful journey, and they dance along on a road that has more pain to come. And dance they will, with faith and hope and love. It is what they have chosen to do. The dance that faces us all is daunting. But I have met the dancers. The rhythm will not die.

Rani Tingamma died on the day I returned. Number nine. Her family had brought her home from the hospital to perform a healing ceremony. The doctor was livid and had warned them that they do so at the risk of killing her.

Blame? There is none.

Education. Awareness. Prevention. Control. Care. We must learn from Africa. We must not give up. The rhythm must never grow quiet.

Wednesday, January 11, 2006

The Chaos Within - Feet

I washed my first dead body on Tuesday.

Nagesh was our 8th client to die. He came to us in Stage IV of HIV/AIDS... the last stage. He was also an alcoholic. I met with him just last Friday. He had returned home from the Sahara Care Home and refused to go back. Errol, who runs Sahara, came with me to convince him to return. We succeeded. Three days later Errol called to tell us that Nagesh had died. Did he know like they say some people know? Did he want to spend the last few days with his family? Empty questions.

This time we were determined to use the death of a client as an opportunity to dispel ignorance and fight stigma. The other clients thus far had never made it home to the community to be ceremonially washed. The body had always been taken straight to the crematorium and had hurried rituals performed before the body was incinerated. When Prakash died the ambulance brought his body home, but before we could get there, the family whisked it off to be cremated. On Tuesday I sent half the team to Nagesh's house to make sure that this did not happen again. Saraswathi, his wife (also one of our HIV+ clients) was distraught and was in no condition to insist on performing the necessary rituals at home in the community.

As expected, when the corpse arrived there was resistance. The team was told that there was the very real risk of HIV passing onto those who washed the body etc. No matter how many awareness programmes are conducted about how one gets HIV and how one does not, the fear remains. As Lata said in the morning, "We will have to do it and show them." We did.

I had kept half the team with me as the Mother General from Wantage was visiting the Deep Griha centre at Tadiwala Road that day and was especially interested to hear about the HIV/AIDS project. By the time we arrived Avinash and the rest of the team had managed to convince the family and community, and Nagesh was laid out, still in his white shroud on a steel bed in the little gully in front of his house. The men of the community were busy building a palate of straw and bamboo to carry his body. Lata informed me that the DISHA team would have to wash the body. I agreed immediately. We had to show the members of community crammed into that gully that Nagesh deserved the same dignity and reverence that they accord to those who die of a heart attack or pneumonia. We had to show them that AIDS was just another tool in death's arsenal.

The pristine white shroud was stained. Dead bodies leak. He had spent the night at the morgue at Sassoon General, but I had been there before, to collect Usha's body in August, and knew that the giant cave of a freezer did not always have power.

We gently stripped the shroud off and undressed him. Lata, Maya, Vaishali, Avinash and I took charge. He was wearing the same dark blue sweater and sky blue shirt that I had seen him wear on the Friday. His limbs were cold, but supple. His skin was alive to my touch. His fingers pliable. His eyes were still open in shock at the sight of nothingness and his mouth gaped open in wonder at the same nothingness. At first we thought that we would wash only his torso, but then we decided to strip him naked and wash his whole body. We continued to gently undress him. I undid his trousers and slid them off his skin-on-bone legs. As I was doing this, some of the men who were watching us came forward and helped me. We then laid a towel across his genital area and slipped off his sodden underwear.

Avinash and the girls then sat him up and began to bathe him. I bathed his legs. A crumbling cake of Life Bouy soap suddenly appeared. I broke off half to wash his legs and feet. The two men that had helped me take off his trousers then helped me by pouring water onto his legs as I scrubbed. Then, one of them took the soap from me and applied more. Together we washed his feet. They were dirty feet. Gnarled, workman's feet. They were the fleshiest part of him. I wondered at how the soles of feet never lose flesh. Or was it just layers of calloused skin... I thought of Christ and his penchant for washing feet. I thought of my mother who died just over a year ago. I wasn't in the country when she died. I wondered about who washed her body. A faceless undertaker. I smiled as I imagined how she would have reacted if she saw what her son was doing. My mother always had a faint aroma of Dettol about her. She was finicky and a little obsessive compulsive when it came to cleanliness. The man who washed Nagesh's feet with me was crying silent tears. Nagesh was his brother.

Then, I had to struggle to stop myself from smiling because I remembered a salesman who recently rode his bicycle outside my house one afternoon in the blazing sun chanting "ya amma, ya akka, ya maushi..." He was selling soap and was calling upon 'mother' 'sister' and 'aunt' to come and see the six cakes of soap that he would sell you for a mere 10 rupees. Then, I realised how apt his call was... mother, father, sister, brother, aunt and uncle, come and see that a man who has died of HIV/AIDS deserves dignity, deserves respect, deserves to have his loved ones around him to mourn his passing.

They were there. His mother, wife, sister, brother, son, daughter, friend. Their wails echoed in the narrow gully. Their grief bounced of coulourful walls. Their tears fell like drops of lead and drained into the gutters with the water that had purified his lifelessness.

We dried his body and dressed him in the traditional white pajama trousers and shirt, and placed what is commonly know as the Maharashtran 'topi' at a jaunty angle on his tousled damp head. The DISHA team stepped back. The men of the community came forward and moved him on to the palate. They unfurled a pink cotton silk shawl and laid it over him. Garlands were brought and he was adorned. Then with the wails in tow they carried him shoulder high to the waiting ambulance.

Avinash and I went ahead to the crematorium, where they performed more rituals before he was rolled into the oven and the fire consumed him.

I told Avinash on the way back to the centre that DISHA had taken another step forward that day. We had shown the community that we had no fear of HIV flying off a dead body and entering insidiously into us. We had made a mockery of this myth. Ignorance and stigma give rise to these myths and the year ahead of us is a challenge that we cannot turn from.

Nagesh's case also shows us how important it is for PLWHA to come forward early, in Stage II so that we can help them live a qualitative life. They are reluctant to come forward because in Stage II they still look healthy and no one would know that they were HIV+. We have to make the community sensitive and supportive to PLWHA. They must have the confidence that they will not be discriminated against and marginalised by family and friends and those that they live amongst.

But, in the end, all I could think of were his feet. The fleshiest part of him. The feet that I had washed with the help of his brother. I lit a cigarette with those same hands immediately after, and my thumb habitually brushed the end of the filter. When was the last time he had washed them? When was the last time that they had been scrubbed so thoroughly?

Who washed my mother's body? Who washed her dead feet?

Empty questions?

Friday, January 06, 2006

Just passing...

10 December 2005: a bulldozer demolishes illegal hutments built next to the Railway Housing on Pune's Tadiwala Road. A heavy police presence ensures that the demolitions go ahead; several homes are reduced to rubble and end up in a skip.

The area has now been fenced off to prevent further construction. I don't know what has happened to the people who lost their homes.

Thursday, January 05, 2006

The Chaos Within - Lost

The DISHA Team has lost one of its team members to what all too often is India.

Suman Honmanne did not return to work on the 2nd of January when we reopened after the holidays. When I inquired after her from Avinash, he told me that she had gone to Sholapur, a town about 4hrs from Pune by train, where her husband lives. Avinash gently suggested that her husband was probably making it difficult for Suman to return.

In June her husband and mother-in-law turned up at DISHA's nutrition centre and what can only be tritely referred to as an 'almighty row' took place in which Avinash had to intervene. The husband did not want her to work. He wanted her to live with him and look after the children. He is in government service and earns enough to support his family. Therefore this in itself is not an unusual request. But Suman, like many women that I have encountered in my country Sri Lanka, and India, is a victim of domestic abuse, mental and on occasion, physical. She looked upon her job with us as a means of being away from him - she lived with his mother in Pune - and also being independent of need.

Suman has two daughters, Tejashree and Sakshi, neither of them are HIV+. Yes, Suman contracted HIV from her husband. Sakshi is only a baby and we need to do another test to confirm that she avoided HIV, but her weight and general health indicate that she is a bouncing baby girl with no complications. After the June row at the nutrition centre her husband took both Tejashree (who is just 3) and Sakshi back with him to Sholapur. When Suman visited a couple of weeks later, Sakshi had an open sore on the side of her head and was filthy and neglected. She convinced her husband to let her have the baby, who spends her time in the Deep Griha creche while Suman is at work.

Her trip back this time was to see Tejashree and her husband has told her that either she stays, or he will take the children away from her and marry again. Suman has chosen to stay with her children, and she told us that the thought of another girl contracting HIV from her husband is to awful to bear.

"He has spoiled my life, how can I let him spoil another girl's life."

Maya was in tears as she communicated this conversation to me. (We finally tracked down a phone number and managed to speak to her yesterday.) Maya has convinced her to come back next month and collect a month's supply of SAM therapy (www.ipath.org). Hopefully this will allow for her to stay in touch with us so that we can help her in any way we can. We offered to speak to her husband but currently she doesn't want us to do that. And Avinash in a very uncharacteristic manner said "there is no point talking to that bastard anyway. I tried last time and he didn't listen." Nevertheless we will try again as soon as Suman allows us to.

A dancing star dances amongst us no longer. Her dance right now is one of pain, tears (she cried on the phone) and tough decisions that she was forced to make. Cornered into making. 'Blackmail' Its the one English word that the women on the team had on their lips yesterday.

Fuck. I just hope she finds happiness with her children.

Happy New Year.

Tuesday, January 03, 2006

My experience at Manavya…

After reading one of the earlier blogs I felt like sharing my experience at Manavya (an NGO which shelters orphaned children and destitute women living with HIV/AIDS).
The moment we reached there, smiles hiding behind the wall welcomed us. While listening to the information provided by the co-ordinator, few kids managed to grab our attention.
Most of us could not help but start playing with them. Before we realised we were mobbed by at least four kids each, who wanted to paint our fingers, few were busy enjoying the human jungle-jim where as few just wanted to sit next to us and look at us.
After a while the shy ones who were hiding behind their friends joined the fun. First few minutes passed in an attempt to know each other’s names followed up by giving up with the same within few minutes and continuing to enjoy.
Interestingly, a girl named Shobha wanted me to wear her favourite bangles and was excited about the fact that I asked her for the ones that matched my t-shirt. She refused to take them back though they were her favourite ones.
Interacting with each one of them one could easily notice their need - their need for attention, touch and a potential relation of a brother, sister or a friend.
Meanwhile, we decided to have a small dance workshop, where I was supposed to teach them a few steps. I failed miserably in my attempt to make them follow my steps and ended up following them, which indeed was much more fun.
I was dancing with them with several thoughts gushing in my mind – many questions, ideas, emotions and so on. By the end of the dance session it was time for us to leave. But a unanimous request from a bunch of kids left me speechless as I wanted to avoid a fake promise– “You will visit us next Sunday na?”

- Rujuta Teredesai
Aadhar Kendra volunteer